Five cavity mold hanging up on guide pins when opening

I am trying to use a five cavity, 30 cal. NOE that is about 4.125" long.

I am using Lee 90005 handles.

When I try to open the mold, the rear (closest to handle pivot pin) mold pin seems to hang up. The front opens a bit allowing the point of the bullet move down and wedge the mold open, disallowing the blocks to move back parallel so that the pin can release. Rolling the mold sprue plate down minimizes the problem but takes time to perform and you still need to fuss with it.

There is nothing wrong with the mold that I can detect and it separates nicely by hand.

The problem exists with the mold oriented sprue plate pivot close or far.

I can get them to open with a lot of fussing, but not fast enough to keep the mold hot enough.

One other thing that seems to make it work, is to fill only the farthest three cavities.

Is this a problem with the Lee handles that would be remedied by NOE's handle?

Is this a function of an extra long mold that I just have to live with?

What do you know about this?

First, is there sufficient lube on the mold pins? The first thing I would do it touch a bit of graphite-bearing lubricant to each of the pins. Be careful to keep it away from the cavities. Bullet lube will do also.

Second, keep a stick of wood handy. When you start to open the mold give just a little tap to the end farthest from the hinge. This will pivot the mold and move the near ends apart. I suspect that after you lube the pins you won't need to do this.

Take care, Tom

I noted the same hang up issue with an NOE 5 cavity 360-180, but the larger flat nosed boolits didn't wedge as you describe. I no longer own the mold.

try poking the right rear corner of the mold facing you with your stick as you try to open it.
you might also need to push the rear alignment pin in a little bit.

Good Morning

I have had this same issue.
To correct it I have seated the the rear pin a little deeper in the block just like run5 said and problem solved.

Thank you for your assistance gentlemen.

I will apply a bit of lube to the pins, they are perfectly clean at the moment.

I have avoided touching the actual aluminum blocks with the stick thus far, but oh how I have wanted to.

I had considered making the pin shorter, diminishing the side bearing surface, but had shied away in hopes of a better solution. Your combined urging has alleviated that meekness and I will employ the press to shorten it up a few thousandths at a time until it works for me if the lube proves insufficient.

Armed with new information, I am off to give it another try.

Hi,

I'm familiar with the Corbin Baby Ace. Is that what you have?

Take care, Tom
Ercoupe 415-G

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tatume

Hi,

I'm familiar with the Corbin Baby Ace. Is that what you have?

Take care, Tom
Ercoupe 415-G

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N9017, a Corbin Jr Ace. The two seat version. It currently has the wings off being recovered. Good catch.

corbinace

Keep the handle pivot bolt adjusted snug helps too.
Is the pivot screw for the sprue plate close to you or away?
If it is away, try it close - the sprue plat can tip the block as you open and close it.

Hope this helps
Bullet maker, maker
Swede Nelson

Thank you for your input Swede.

I have tried with the sprue pivot both near and far to no avail.

I prefer the pivot away and try to always open the plate 170 degrees to the rear for just the reason you mention and to make it a smaller package.

I will check the handle pivot bolt for security/tension.

I tried the pin lube idea mentioned earlier to no avail.

The press is at work and I am not there yet.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by corbinace

N9017, a Corbin Jr Ace. The two seat version. It currently has the wings off being recovered. Good catch.

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Low and slow,
the way to go.