22 rf Barrel Steel

Need advise here on barrel steel identification or assessment.

Been thinking of building a 303-22 because I have the barrels. But - how do I tell if the steel is suitable? I was given to believe that Tozz 22's used 4140 type steel but when I compare the four barrels that I have, two ring like a tuning fork while two have a dull thud sound. One of the 'tuning fork' barrels is one I am shortening for a youngster and that steel is tough. It machines like tough steel too. That one has the action machined into the barrel and is stamped 'PROVED BARREL STEEL'. It blunted three hacksaw blades (not good quality blades obviously). That one is a Slazenger made by Lithgow. The other barrel with 'ring' is a Coey - probably a military training rifle. Any ideas? The Coey barrel is real long so would make a good high velocity cast boolit rifle but has only a 1-in-16 twist while the shorter 1-in-14 twist Tozz has that dull thud.

If you have trouble sawing it, it is hard steel. I don't think you have to worry about
the strength much, but the ones that ring would be my choice by far. I would guess that
the "thunk" barrels have either a screwed on action that is slightly loose or maybe a crack.
Something is causing the energy you impart with an impact to be absorbed quickly rather
than exciting the first natural frequency of the barrel - which is the ring.

Bill

I know a fellow that made a 22-3030 using a rimfire barrel, he has shot several jacketed bullets through it and I think there is still rifleing in it. I used a cooey barrel on my #1mk3 22 hornet conversion but I learned after buying a nice new lyman 55 grain mould that the twist would not stabilize it.:violin: So far I have been cutting the gas check base off to remove about 10 grains to get it to shoot. otherwise at 25 yards it was a shotgun pattern for a group. I did learn that a primed case with a 22 pellet pushed in the neck worked pretty good and the only noise is the fireing pin hitting. (just for fun ).

I understand that using a .22 barrel used to be a common practice when the .22 Hornet was being developed, but the barrel is normally softer, and the twist rate slower 1" in 16" or so, and the bore diameter was a couple of thousands smaller. Usually you were limited to 40 gr bullets of .222 in diameter. I think there are still a few of these available, but why bother?

It's curious that the 1-in-16 twist doesn't stabilize that 55 grainer. My 1-in-16 twist .223 bore hornet stabilized 60gr spire-point j-words. Not only does it stabilize them but it is scary accurate. I use 55gr spire points because they are flatter shooting and cheaper. Muzzle velocity with .224 55gr j-words is 2740fps. That's using Lil'Gun and R-P cases. The R-P cases are important because of the larger capacity. I also get indefinite case life and never trim them. I don't size the necks so the case can actually head-space on the mouth. I use a paper cup to seat the boolit.

I want to use air rifle pellets for hunting rabbits in built up areas. One of my 22rf barrels is destined for a 22 pellet rabbit rifle. I was going to use the long Coey barrel for that

Lithgow barrels, like on the Model 12 and 55, are of ordnance steel used to make 303 barrels. Basically, they used up the 'war stock' they had left over from WW2.

Chrispy

Sleeving a worn out .303 barrel would probably work better.

Sleeving is not something I can do. My idea is to make the chamber separately and thread it on both ends and screw the barrel into the chamber. That way I can lathe turn the throat and the chamber separately.