NOE Hollowpoint mold ?

[Maximumbob54]

So the choice is either too low or too high???

There is slight discoloration in the lead that makes mold fill not look so good but the only poor fill is around the ring at the mouth. I can add tin to the mix to get a perfect ring and the one on the left I think was when I ran the lead hottest but I'm trying to eliminate the ring. Is this just not going to happen???

[Handloader109]

Boolit on the left looks like it was when you had loosened the retaining clips and the pins are sitting to low. Boolit on right looks like the pins weren't settled back into position and the centre the same but with poor fill out.
After dumping boolits turn the mold over and jiggle it so the pins settle back into their lowest position. If you close the mold straight after dumping with it still upside down the pins will be high and give the result on the right of the pic.

Hmmmm, been struggling with my 9mm HP mold. Similar results. I haven't been able to figure it out... Till Now... Thanks I'll try soon, also, it does need to be HOT, and I think I need a bit more tin to help fill. Thanks

[cainttype]

As mentioned earlier, the pins will settle at different heights if the mould is closed upright compared to inverted. The clearance cut on the pin that allows the pin to swing free is the reason.
All the NOE HPs I've seen are adjusted to be closed in the upright position as they come new. Adjusting the pin's races is not a big deal if you need too, but I haven't found it necessary as long as long I pay attention to seating the pins with the mould upright.
Proper preheating and attention to the way you close the mould (seat the pins) will cure all the issues that are mould-related. Temps, alloy, and cadence are controlled by the caster.

[220]

So the choice is either too low or too high???

Short answer no.

The pins need to be able to float and have some vertical and horizontal movement to allow the boolits to drop free of the mould.
All of mine have come from NOE adjusted so that the pin height is correct when they are sitting as low as they can.

Take your mould half that has the retailing clips and HP pins attached tilt it slightly away from you so the pins are sitting in the mould retaining clips to the ground, the small flat on the HP pin should be flush with the nose of the projectile. If you gently push on the base of the pin you will see it can rise. My guess is you are closing the mould with the pins not seated in the lowest position.
Once the mould is closed the pins cant move if there was enough clearance for them to move freely then you would get flashing around the pin.
Might also be worth putting a bit of sprue plate lube on the retaining clips and pins to help them move a little easier.

[Maximumbob54]

Let me be sure I'm clear on this before I cast a pile more of miserable failure. Do I need to ease the mold closed sprue plate up for the pins to set right? Just how tight should the screw in the base be? I set them tight and then back them off just a bit so the pins have just enough wobble to move away from the side of the mold. Is this right?

[LenH]

Beagle333 helped me out a bunch when I got my HP mold from NOE. I cheated a bit though I polished the end of the pins with 1000 grit sand paper but
I spun the pins in a cordless drill. I also smoked the end of the pins. You do have to run the mold hot but after several tries I finally got great boolits and piles of them.
There is a learning curve and patients is required.

[Virginia John]

It is all about the heat. The pins need to be hot and running your mix a little hotter than usual also helps.

[SSGOldfart]

The pins "swing" the boolits out of the block, and they just fall off. The only thing is, you REALLY need to get the mold up to temp first. I preheat the mold upside down on a hotplate. Once it's good & hot, it casts perfect boolits. I have the NOE .453 large HP mold. Use a relatively soft alloy, size to .452, use a good lube.

my fall better from a HP NOE then many of my LEE molds

[cainttype]

The screws attaching the races to the mould blocks should be snug, no play in the races. If loose enough for the race to move, I'd expect to eventually see damage at the pin holes from misalignments while closing.
Open your mould. With sprue plate up, see if your pins are positioned properly in the cavities. If so, you only need to close your mould while it is in the upright position.
If the above is correct, inverting the open mould will allow the pins to seat slightly deeper in the cavity (view the open mould with spue-plate in both positions and you WILL see the difference). The difference is equal to the clearance cut into the pins that allows them to swing out on their races. Races CAN be adjusted if needed (go to NOE's forum for illustrated instructions).
Once you find the right position, you should snug your races so they do not move. That will allow your pins to fall back into place properly aligned with their cut-out.
Everything else is temp, alloy, cadence, and technique. On some moulds, you may find that a slight tapping before/during opening can make a huge difference...try it.

[SwedeNelson]

Never operate with the brackets screws loose.
You can and will damage the blocks, the brackets need to center the pins in there opening.

See our instructions on how to adjust the elevation of the pins here:
http://noebulletmolds.com/smf/index.php?topic=199.0
And always settle the pins down on the brackets before closing.

Bullet maker, maker
Swede Nelson

[Maximumbob54]

That's the info I needed right there. I'll go home and beat myself for not just asking the source directly. I bet tonight I finally cast some good ones.

TBC...

[Maximumbob54]

Followed the directions from the man himself and wouldn't you know it this is now the "worst" I have:



I'm now very pleased. The races are tight and the pins are allowed to settle down in the mold before closing the blocks. I cast this run with the same lead as before but at 800 and poof they are good. This one still has a slight lip around the opening but again this is among the worst of them. Happy, happy, joy, joy!!!

[Boolit_Head]

Hmmm good info. I was not tapping on mine before I closed it either but I was not getting bad results. I'll have to go try some with some tapping before I close it.

[Moonie]

I was having some issues with the 350gr .454 RG2. This will help but I think most of it is that I've just started using a PID and need to get the temp dialed in. I'm thinking 750F is too cool for this mold with straight WW (from the '80's). I was having issues with pins not wanting to slide out and boolits sticking to the pins. I've got a Mihec HP (452 200gr HP) I use some so I'm familiar with casting HP's, as I said, just learning to cast with the PID.

[Maximumbob54]

With a cavity that large to fill you are going to need one seriously hot mold, hot lead, and fill it fast. Those mold pins seem to cool off way too fast so that won't help you any. A higher than usual tin content may help as well. My issue was purely related to not knowing how to use the mold. The link provided above showed how to just slightly bend the races which is what I did to free up the pins just a bit more. And finding out that I need to allow the pins to settle to the bottom of the mold block finished the deal. Good luck.

[cainttype]

Al's moulds (NOE) are top notch.
Most, if not all, issues can be traced to the caster/operator. If not, Swede (Al) will make it right.
You couldn't be in better hands.

[Moonie]

Al's moulds (NOE) are top notch.
Most, if not all, issues can be traced to the caster/operator. If not, Swede (Al) will make it right.
You couldn't be in better hands.

This is 100% correct. This is not my first NOE mold, just my first HP one. An as I said, I have no doubt it is my inexperience with the PID. Have cast for 25+ years without one, learning new tricks.

[TXGunNut]

Good thread, timely too! My first RG mould is sitting on my bench, scrubbed and heat-cycled. Can't wait to pour some lead in that thing someday soon. Sure is pretty!

[220]

Followed the directions from the man himself and wouldn't you know it this is now the "worst" I have:

looks much better, glad you sorted it out

[Maximumbob54]

If anyone else has doubts about getting these molds working...