Anyone using them? What mixture do you use to clean gun parts?
Anyone using them? What mixture do you use to clean gun parts?
Have one from HF, I purchased 5 lb citric acid powder from Duda Diesel. 1 tsp with water, go thru the cycle twice and they're clean inside and out. Rinse out and let dry.
I got one of the Hornady ultrasonics with some of their concentrate. Just a splash of their concentrate and then fill it up with rainwater. When I rinse the cases there is no water marks or stains. I will get some citric acid when I run out of the concentrate.
WHEN IN DOUBT, USE MORE CLOUT!
Harbor Freight sells a powder for a reasonable price that works well. Unfortunately their US cleaner did not last very long.
My new Lyman ultrasonic cleaner came in on Monday and I have run a number of cases through it already. The particular model I now have has a tank heater as well and this helps speed the cleaning. Because I do watch repair and servicing I was familiar with ultrasonic cleaners and the fantastic job they do. The sonic energy causes cavitation to occur on the surface of the metal and as the micro-bubble collapses it does so with such force that it litterally plucks dirt particles from the surface of the metal. The cases come out CLEAN. Is such a deep level of cleaning of brass cases really necessary? For most purposes, no (although for BPCR it is very handy and helpful). I did use it today to clean an 1860 Colt C&B after shooting today by simply removing the grip and immersing it in the ultrasonic cleaner solution and then rinsing several times ultrasonically. It made it quite a bit easier than having to take it all apart to clean it as I would usually have done.
I remember reading about a new ship that had to replace the propellers after making one trip across the Atlantic. The bubbles created by cavitation ate up the poorly designed propellers.
I love my cheapo Harbor Freight sonic cleaner.
I used a little bit of Greased Lightning from Home Depot and two packs of lemonade mix a member mentioned recently. They come out spotless but a little discolored. I then put the cases in the Lyman vibrator cleaner with some Nufinish and they literally come out looking just like I got them from Star. I was pleasantly surprised to say the least.
I use simple green in my harbour frieght machine. Need something bigger, can't get my gp100 in it completely, gotta do half at atime.
Paul G.
Once I was young, now I am old and in between went by way to fast.
The end move in politics is always to pick up a gun.
-- R. Buckminster Fuller
I have given up on ultrasonic for brass cases.
If I had one case to get really clean, I would use it.
The transducer has a narrow beam.
I am not sorry I bought the ultrasonic. I use it to get the Copper solvent out of Bronze brushes before the Bronze dissolves.
Longwood,
You are right about the force of cavitation being able to cause pits in a boat or ship propeller. A propeller mechanically induces the condition of cavitation and the collapsing bubbles can pluck bits of the metal from the surface of the prop. In fact, submarines have to be careful not to create cavitation because it makes noise that can be detected. It is really an interesting thing!
I am really happy with my new Lyman ultrasonic cleaner. It is large enough to clean 900 9mm cases in a whack and to clean pistols as well (different solutions, of course). It does an incredible job of cleaning and in short order, too. Cases come out the cleanest I have ever seen and after a trip through the tumbler they look as though they are brand new.
I might add a word about cleaning solutions. There are certain chemicals that form what are called chelates or ligands with copper and are therefore great for removing corrosion on brass. Acetic acid, citric acid, EDTA, etc. are such chemicals. Great care, however, must be taken if you mix certain cleaning or household chemicals. Bleach when combined with a number of household or shop chemicals can form toxic or even explosive compounds. The same goes for peroxide. The safest thing to do is to buy a dedicated product for use in an ultrasonic cleaner. Now I know that most, if not all of us on this forum are the do-it-yourself type and hate to buy something that we can have the satisfaction and economy of making. That is well and good and I am not saying we should not do so, but I am just suggesting that we should all be careful and make sure various chemicals are safe to mix and be knowledgible enough in how to safely use them. I am reminded of a poem I learned back in school decades ago:
A greeen little chemist on a green little day
Mixed some green little chemicals in a green little way
The green little grasses now tenderly wave
Over the green little chemist's green little grave
Thanks for the replies! I'm really only interested in the solutions you're using to clean guns/metal parts.
I'm very satisfied with what I'm using now for cases (citric acid powder-2 teaspoons & a little less than a quart of water w/soap)
I use Ed's red (without the acetone and with a little CLP added) in my HF ultrasonic for gun parts.... Does a great job even with carbon build up....
Eds Red Recipe
I'm not comfortable using water based solutions for small components and high tolerance fitting parts....
Morning guys,
Watchrepair people and jewelers have been using ultrasonic cleaners with water for years with no problems. It would take hours in a ultrasonic before a steel part would show any signs of cavatation erosion. Aluminum is another story, as long as you have a good hard coat finish you should be OK for a short ( 5-10 minutes) run. As for cleaning gun parts any of the heavy duty cleaners would work well, Simple Green etc. Dishwashing soap works good also such as Dawn or Joy etc. To make your own "mouse milk" for cleaning jewelery ( or gun parts) to a gallon of water add enough dishwashing soap to make it like bubble blowing liquid, add a cup of rubbing alcohol and a cup of suddsing ammonia. Use this in a well ventalitated area as the ammonia will outgas. If you are cleaning SWMBO's jewelry DO NOT put any pearls, opals,emerals in a ultrasonic it tends to break them. As long as you rinse and dry the parts well then oil no problems with rust.
As to the "branded" ultrasonics by the reloading companys they appear to be Chinese made. They are not bad units for the price just keep in mind that they are "disposiable" when they break toss and get another one. We got some to try off of e-bay and they work really good for the price. Are there better ultrasonics out their? Yes but you pay more for them. Have a good day guys,
AggieEE
Due to the fact that I’m a professional clockmaker and goldsmith by education and profession I do use (and used) about 4 different (industrial) ways to clean brass objects and as a reloader all so cases. These days i use ultrasonic cleaners, tumblers and chemical cleaners on a more industrial scale for my current company in the Netherlands.
With ultrasonic cleaning you need a proper cleaning media otherwise it won’t do a proper job. Cleaning media like that from Hornady works fine. You all so can mix your own cleaning media (don’t use ammonia, it weakens your cases). Please note: sometimes for decent cleaning you need to clean longer and ad more cleaning solution than is mentioned in the manuals (it’s a sales trick)! This way of cleaning works for every kind of case, but not extremely dirty ones unless you have a more aggressive cleaning media
Chemical cleaning in combination with the ultrasonic machine is all so a handy and very fast but you need to use the right chemicals otherwise you will wreck your cases in a blink of an eye, this is for the more professional and industrial user. I know a chemical factory that supplies Norma/Lapua and many other European ammo producers with their products.
Site (in German language): http://pdf.elma-ultrasonic.com/Ehsko...Uebersicht.pdf
Site (in the US): http://www.nationaljewelerssupplies..../merchant.mvc? (search for: ELMA ultrasonic machines or contact them personally for the correct cleaning fluids)
In many household solvents and cleaning media is ammonia present, this is not so good for your cases. If you use cleaning fluids with ammonia for the tumblers and the ultrasonic cleaners, there is a tip: let the ammonia vaporise first before you use it.
Peter (Stampede)
Over 27 years experience reloading ammo, specialy with VithaVuori powders and black powder ammo.
I frequently reload: .45ACP / .44MAG / .357MAG / .357 Maximum / .38 Special / .45-70 / .45-120 / .50-70 / .50-110 / 12,7x44R (and similar European obsolete BP ammo)/ .30-30Win / .223Rem / .38-40 / .44-40 / .300 Win Mag / 7x64 Brenneke (and similar European Rifles/ 9mm / My personal favorites: Freedom Arms revolvers, Winchester, Sharps and Remington rifles (produced before 1900).
AggieEE Chimed in above but here is a link to a thread he did with lots of good info.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...asonic+cleaner
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |