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Thread: A few casting and size/lubing questions

  1. #21
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    23
    Again I appreciate the input, I realize my mistakes with heat, the mold was a bit too cool, and the melt maybe a bit too hot and my rytheme non-existant which affected the tmeperature of both possibly oxidizeing my tin out of the equation. It's been a while since I've visited but not many boolits are made during deployments; I'm getting ready to go home and get back in gear.

    You mentioned oil or other contaminants, I highly doubt the initial degreasing boil, and 3-4 runs I did have seasoned the mold much at all. Does the downtime between casting sessions affect the mold?, and is it possible to clean the mold too much or too often? I felt it would be safe to go ahead and boil/degrease my molds when I get back may do the same with my pot to get rid of any residual dross build up off the pot walls. I read that time should have had some significant impact on the hardness of the bullets previously cast I may remelt them for fun so I have uniform bullets when I start reloading in mass; or would you think that unnecessary?
    Last edited by ky-moonshiner; 10-11-2014 at 08:07 AM.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master pjames32's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    NW New Mexico
    Posts
    707
    Welcome back! Thanks for your service.
    I just noticed this thread and will add my $0.02. I agree with the comments about the mold being too cool. As long as your bullets are, you will need to get the mold temp a lot higher to fill out without wrinkles. I've never been able to run fast enough with a 4 gang mold and a dipper. I can do a 1 or 2, but not a 4. You might consider a bottom pour pot.
    I live in a dry climate so I don't Oil my mold cavities. I do spray my molds with brakleen before each casting session.
    Keep casting! It will get easier

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Washington State
    Posts
    411
    I've used a leather mallet to open my moulds for forever (30 + years since I got back into casting). I don't wear gloves but do wear glasses and pants, short sleeve shirts are OK, but NEVER shorts! I cast near to an open door in my shop for ventilation. I do not use a 4 cavity mould as they can be heavy (if steel) and touchy to use ( for me anyway) to get excellent boolits. However, I use two cavity moulds simultaneously. I fill one & set it down under the pot so it doesn't cool off too much, then cut the sprue on the other and drop the boolits, and repeat. IMO using a 4 cavity mould with 4 different boolits is going to be difficult, especially for a beginner. All of the moulds I regularly use are steel. Nothing wrong with aluminum or brass, I just prefer steel. I would recommend you get a LEE mould that casts a boolit near what you want and get experience as well as boolits you can shoot. Then you can go back to your 4 cavity. Just don't expect serious quantities of boolits from a 4 cavity mould with 4 different boolits. IMO....Pilgrim

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check