My son pointed out to me on hanging targets like steel for taking a lot of rounds and holding up recaps make great hangers. Chain and other things seem to fail from time to time but the recap off a tire bolted to the steel will take a lot of abuse. I have not tried it yet but sure sounds like a workable plan.
Reloading to save money I am sure the saving is going to start soon
I made 5 of these for our 4-H group but I didn't glue them. The bases can be taken apart and put in a large duffel bag for storage.
http://www.n***.org/tv_magazines/ima...rget_stand.pdf
Is the op looking for stands for steel or paper targets?
Paper for this project.Originally Posted by jmorris
Shooting that plate is hazardous in the extreme. When a projectile hits one of the divots on the edge, it will ride the divot and return to you with a vengeance.Is that including the gong? Those things are pricey, I know. I have a bunch of railroad track tie plates and need a hanger for them. They don't ring like AR500, but they were free and still fun to shoot, especially with M2 armor piercing rounds!
To paraphrase Ronald Reagan, the trouble with many shooting experts is not that they're ignorant; its just that they know so much that isn't so.
What size is the target you are wanting to hold?
About 18" x 24"
Last edited by Petrol & Powder; 02-02-2015 at 11:41 PM.
How high do you want it to hold the target and how much room are you willing to allow for it?
Have one in our web-store
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product...6uib74nmd88uk6
Bullet maker, maker
Swede Nelson
The expectation of evil is more bitter than the suffering -OR-
More people die from worrying about getting ate by a bear then get ate by a bear.
I'd like the top of the target to be about 5' off the ground. It would be good if I could make the vertical sections collaspe down to no more than the width of the base, say about 24".
If you have to stay that short the PVC elbows and union idea above might work. Maybe fill the bottom section with sand and put on end caps?
Fiber glass tent poles might do the job too but PVC is cheap and you can pick it up at any hardware store.
I'd use the pvc only for the "T"'s and joints and cheap lumber for the rest.
$6.74 / each
JM eagle 1-1/2 in. x 10 ft. PVC Sch. 40 DWV Plain End Pipe
2X2X8 TOP CHOICE FURRING STRIP
Item #: 4513 | Model #: LBR-4513
Be the first to write a review! $1.97
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Thomas Jefferson Quotations:
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government."
The base isn't too difficult. PVC with sand or black iron pipe (because I already have some) and some T's & end caps. It's the uprights that I'd like to shrink. I'm thinking some type of coupler for furring strips so that I could assemble them like tent poles.
Work is intruding and I may have to get back to this later in the year.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
You could make couplers for the out of 1x2 box tube or a corrdless drill, screws and more strips of wood.
I would rather have a one piece stand that took up the equivalent room of a fishing pole than a bunch of parts though. Especially in a trunk that is so full of other stuff there is no room for a "normal" target stand.
Easy, simple, cheap, fast, compact, NO construction at all......
1. Get two five-foot lengths of 1/2" rebar.
2. Get a large-ish sheet of cardboard, fold it in half, and tape it in that configuration.
3. Drive the rebar into the ground maybe a foot or less, depending on ground type and condition, spaced a bit less than the cardboard is wide.
4. Slip the cardboard over the rebar for target backing.
Windproof, plenty stiff enough to allow stapling targets to the cardboard. Cost? maybe two or three bucks for rebar, and cardboard is easily mooched from furniture stores etc.
Stores ABSOLUTELY FLAT in car trunk or garage.
A scuff of a boot will eliminate all traces of the the spots where the rebar was driven into the ground.
A T-post driver makes the job extremely fast and easy.
We've used this system for many years at the Nevada Cast Bullet Shoot, where the weather is often VERY windy, and even has snow or rain. Works perfectly.
To hang steel targets, add a length of pipe (preferably steel..... electrical conduit works fine) with a hole drilled in one side at each end to slip over the rebar posts. Then, short chains can be hung from the ends of the pipe to support steel targets.
.
Last edited by BruceB; 02-04-2015 at 01:34 PM.
Regards from BruceB in Nevada
"The .30'06 is never a mistake." - Colonel Townsend Whelen
I use Unique Tec's target stand with a 6' 1x2 furing strips cut in half with a cabinet hinge the middle with a lock on the other side of the 1x2 now my 6' 1x2 is 3' long.
This has always peaked my interest http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1426
I use 14 to 16 inch steel rims from the junk yard. Weld a piece of 2x2" tubing (about 8" long) to each edge 180* from each other.
or 1x1.5" channel and use appropriate lumber 1x2 or 2x2 furring strips. Staple cardboard to the wood uprights. It will resist wind, but here in N. AZ It blows pretty good sometimes (30 to 50 knots is common in the spring) and you may need to add some weight (sand bag, big rocks, etc) to the rim. Brodie
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