Bullet crimp question

[54shooter]

I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, guess I'll find out. I've run into a snag loading some 22-250 ammo using a FB bullet. When I try to gently take the expansion out with the roll crimp in the seating die I think I'm changing the shoulder angle. I think I'm being really careful but they don't do well in the case gauge. I'm thinking about trying a factory crimp die to try and get it right. To add to the problem my rifle is not with me at the moment to see if and how they might chamber. I guess my question is will the FCD be the way to go or am I missing something else. Everything I've loaded with BT bullets have been great shooters. Thanks in advance for any help and again I apologize if I'm not in the right place.

[tinhorn97062]

I load FB bullets for .30-06 and find that chamfering the inside of the case mouth is all I need to do, to get that bullet going in nicely. As for crimp- I don't crimp at all. I've found that my RCBS dies expand the neck appropriately, giving me good next tension when seating the bullet. All of that is assuming a jacketed bullet.

I load cast also, and use a different expander (.310). Again, light chamfer of the case mouth and no crimp.

If it were me, I'd be measuring the neck inside diameter after full length sizing, and making sure that it's of the appropriate diameter.

[too many things]

first what are you using to expand ? 22 needs a 22 not a 25 -30 the lee will work IF you just set to about .010 larger will put too much pressure on the case neck

[mdi]

Measure. Measure the case neck and body near the shoulder and along the case body looking for bulging/buckling. Maybe too much crimp. If you are using the crimp feature of your seating die, try seating and crimping separately (seat bullets, back off seating stem, readjust die body to lightly crimp, just enough to remove the flare)...

I don't reload 22-250 but the methods are the same...

[runfiverun]

he could be crimping for a lever gun or a semi-auto.
to crimp a rifle case you really shouldn't even be feeling to bump in the press handle.

by bump I mean that's what your really doing.
your just bumping the case mouth against the ring in the die.
if your case lengths vary by more than 1-2 thou. you will push the mouth down and can bulge the shoulder, or the neck right below the crimp.

[54shooter]

Wow! Thank you all for the info. When I'm loading rifle ammo, especially for hunting I trim carefully. I don't mix headstamp as I have found it can make quite a difference. My 22-250 is a Ruger M-77 stainless with the paddle stock. I must be crimping to much, I set the die to just barely feel the bump, just barely but I definitely feel it. I actually seat real slow to make sure I do. I am using the Lee flaring die and I'm pretty sure I'm not overdoing it. I flare just enough to start the bullet. I'm always tending to back off all that I can cause I really don't like to flare bottle neck cartridges. When it comes to chamfering, all I do is give it just enough to see that there is a shine on the inside of the case mouth. I read that you want to be careful about over chanfering. I'm gonna give that a try though if it would get me away from case mouth expansion. Does anyone have an opinion on the Lee FCD? As usual I act before I ask and ordered one. I don't mind taking the extra time to do it. ( All I have is a rockchucker.) But if it isn't really needed I wouldn't do it. Thanks to all for the advice. Maybe I can get these right now!

[runfiverun]

the rifle FCD's are okay.
I have one of those boat paddles in 308, it's put a bunch of lead down range.
I wouldn't get too worked up about crimping the case mouth on a bolt action it's generally not needed.

one little thing [trick] that I sometimes use that might help you too.
I leave the flair on the case mouth.
I try to work it so that that flair will contact the neck area in the chamber and help hold everything straight.
if I am using the loads just for target or P-Dog type shooting it helps.
in the field I iron that flair out [for follow up shots if needed]

[dipstick]

I agree that you most likely don't need to crimp 22-250 ammo for a Ruger 77. I have never had to "flare" case mouths on 22 caliber ammo using jacketed bullets. Just chamfer and seat carefully. The expander ball in the full length sizing die has always expanded the mouth enough.

If you are trying to "roll" crimp a jacketed bullet without a cannelure, you may be causing a bulge at the shoulder.

[54shooter]

Yeah, that's what I was doing for sure. I thought I was just touching it barely to take the flair out of the case but I'm hitting it to hard. I couldn't see the bulge but the gauge told me. I've taken everything apart and resized. I'll use the advice from you guys and hopefully get it right. I'll post how they turn out when I finish them.

[MT Chambers]

You should not be crimping rifle shells meant for a bolt action, case neck tension alone will be plenty. Revolvers and leverguns may require crimping and that is done with your seating die usually as a second step in the process. Even single shots don't require crimping either. If you still find it necessary to crimp your bolt rifle rounds: you need instead to correct your case neck tension.....Benchrest shooters in both CBA and jacketed do not crimp bullets, it is an unnecessary step and an accuracy destroyer.

[54shooter]

OK, I don't crimp my rifle shells as a rule. I went ahead and resized my brass and went to a heavier chanfer than I'm used to and seated without any problems. It took a few to get the hang of making a nice straight chanfer but I got there.

[fredj338]

You do NOT need to flare the neck for bottleneck rifle. Just chamfer & seat. No crimp required either, I don't even crimp rounds for my AR. If you are flaring, then just a touch to return the case mouth to straight.