As stated I came into a nice German made Interarms import Mauser HSC in .380. Always wanted a Walther or one of these.
Never owned a .380 before. Was wondering if anyone has a favorite mold for this caliber. Or just favorite load info. Thanks
As stated I came into a nice German made Interarms import Mauser HSC in .380. Always wanted a Walther or one of these.
Never owned a .380 before. Was wondering if anyone has a favorite mold for this caliber. Or just favorite load info. Thanks
My favorite is the RD TL356-100 RF, also made by LEE as the 356-95RF, load with the starting load for a 95 grain fmj with WW231 or HP38 with a COAL of .910-.920. THis works in my Browning 1910's, my Remington 51, my LCP, my Beretta and my Colt Mustang Pocketlite. However, I have not tried it in my Mauser.
I hope you are going to have a better experience with yours than I am having with mine. Mine is just about a jammamatic. Regardless of what load I have tried. The post war guns made by Mauser for Interarms have a very spotty record. I never did get my first one to run right, and I am still struggling with the one I got earlier this year.
_________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.
My Glock 42 and Bersa Thunder .380 really like 3.2 grains Titegroup under pretty much any plated or lead slug. This is a plus p load and works well in the larger pistols, I wouldn't advise it in the LCP or Colt Mustang/Kimber Micro.
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
I've found the Ranch Dog tumble luber to feed well in the Glock, Colt 1908, Walther, and FN1910/22.
Mine is the NOE, but currently looks mostly tapped out on their inventory; the Accurate 35-098R version can probably be had a little quicker for a little more - - a little nicer molds overall.
WWJMBD?
In the Land of Oz, we cast with wheel weight and 2% Tin, Man.
I use a 10- cavity H&G S55 in my MAC M11A1. That bullet hose eats lead very quickly.
Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.
My "go-to" boolit for the .380 is the Lee 358-105 SWC. I started using this mold out of necessity when I first started loading .380 brass and did not (at that time) have any other .358" mold suitable for the project. This boolit pattern has never failed to cycle through any .380 pistol I have fed it into, and that has been quite a few. Since then I have acquired several molds for dedicated .380 loads but still come back home to the Lee mold. As for the loads, can't help there from not knowing which powders you have at your disposal.
I have the .32 HSC, and it works great. The 380's had a reputation for being problematic, as far as reliability goes. I don't know what the exact cause of this was, but as far as I know, the issue was never resolved by Mauser. I don't think they sold all that many of them in 380. They are neat guns.
I had a WWII bring-back 32 Mauser that ran like a top. But I was drinking the "Hatcher RSP" coolaid and it went down the highway. In general, my experience with pre-WW II guns has been that the 32's always seem to run better than the 380's in the same model. YMMV, but I don't think it will vary by much
_________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |