Browning BAR 7mm rem mag

[Ableshooter]

Hey guys haven't been around for a while good to see you all still here.

I recently fell into a browning BAR in 7mm rem mag. I am about to start working up a load for it. I have my mind made up that I am going to use 154 grain hornady accubonds and probably some reloader 25 that I have for powder. I am just wondering if you guys have any thoughts on reloading for a semi automatic rifle. What should I keep in mind and if there are any pitfalls I should avoid. Any info will be appreciated.

I am not the biggest fan of semi automatics but I got the gun and leupold VXIII 3.5-10 X 40, and a harris bipod for 550.00 and couldn't pass it up.

[versifier]

I'm not a big fan of the cartridge (7x57 is adequate for anything on this continent except the biggest brown and polar bears, and we don't have them in New England) and I hate belted magnum cases iin general for several reasons, but there are a few things I can tell you about loading for semiauto rifles. A good, firm crimp is an absolute must to prevent telescoping while feeding. I recommend a Lee Factory Crimp Die - case length is not so critical with it. You may be able to get by with full length sizing, but if you have feeding problems you'll have to go with a small base sizing die. Do not expect your cases to last very long, though loading milder will help. Shooting hot loads will eat the throat in a very short time. Don't cook the barrel by letting it get too hot while shooting it - if you can't lay your hand over the chamber without discomfort, let it cool off. Playing Rambo with large powder capacity cases doesn't work like it does with an SKS, they're too easy to overheat and warp.

[4thebrdz]

Versifier said it about right. I have a BAR in 300WM and full length size for hunting. For shooting at the range I'll just shoulder bump the case for sizing. No need for HOT loads as accuracy is best.
What I do know about the BAR is that the gas piston hits the inertia block to eject and chamber. On mine the piston hits a bit hard and some times mushrooms the inertia block where the rod goes through. I have had to run a drill through the hole that had mushroomed so to get the action working again.

[versifier]

Hi Paul,
Good to see you over here. I seem to run into you more on the web than at the range. Amusing, as we live about 2 miles apart. How many loadings do you get from your mag cases? What goes first, the web or the neck?

[4thebrdz]

Versifier- I have 3 lots of 20 that have been annealed 2x and need another before loading again all with 15 times fired. I load 5x and then anneal. I haven't had to dump any 300WM cases yet. I check the head area inside ths case with a 90deg bent thin pick to see if there is a ridge build up just forward of the web. so far I have no problems. My usual load is about 70 something gr of Reloader 22 with 180's. They were new bought Win cases.
Dick C came over and got some 10/22 parts I ordered for him from Midway,last night. He said he spoke with you .
I'll give a call one to you one of these days to see when you fireup the melt pot so I can learn something.

[Flyboy]

Welcome Ableshooter,
One other thing you might watch out for is using slow burning powders.
If I may explain. One of my shooting partners was loading his 300 WM BAR with RL 22 and RL 25 medium hot loads. Very accurate. After 4 or 5 trips to the range, the BAR wouldn't eject and self load anymore. So Jim brought his BAR to the Browning gunsmith for repair because not many know how to reassemble a BAR.
(Browning gunsmith = $$$) To make a long story short, the cause of the problem was un burned powner and powder residue in the gas block / piston area.
The gunsmith recomendation was don't use any powder slower than RL 15 in a BAR. Who Knew???

Jim followed this advise and hasn't had any such problems since.

Best of luck with your new rifle.