bullet valocity/ 22-250

I am loading the 22-250 and I have the VX-3 long range 8.5-24 power with varmint hunter reticles. Loupold recomends 3680 fps with 55 grain bullet to match yrd and windage marks for that scope.
I am getting close but my fps through my chrony are not as tight as I thought they should be. My question is, how close should my speed be from one bullet to a nother. In a 10 shot group i am fluctuating 0-50 fps.
My 3 shot groups are great @ 100 yrds. On my best day I am puting them through the same hole. But out @ 200 yrds im shooting 2"-3" groups, and of course getting lucky every once in a while with 1" groups.
Am I expecting to much?
How close should my fps average be?
What tips can you give me to tighten that up?
My ultimate goal for this rifle is to hopefully get out 400 + for coyotes

Rifle: Savage Model 12BVSS 22-250
Barrell: 26"
Twist: 1-12"
LOAD
34.5 gr. IMR 3031
55 gr V-Max

Welcome to the forum, shootnJas.
That's about my favorite varmint cartridge, and my favorite powder to use in it. Some thoughts and suggestions:

Assuming that your charge of 3031 isn't over max for your rifle (it is for mine by about 1gr, primers crater in my Rem788 at the level you are loading) and you are aware of and watching for the signs of overpressure loads, try some different brand bullets of the same weight. You might try some Sierra 55gr SBT or HPBT bullets or some Nosler BT's. There is a lot of variation in how different bullets of the same weight will behave at longer ranges, and each rifle generally has individual preferences. Just because a given bullet is really accurate at 100yds, that is not necessarily a real indication of how it will perform at very long ranges. Whenever changing any components, always reduce your charges and work up the load again carefully. You may or may not see a change in velocity up or down with different bullets and a similar charge, but it's the easiest variable to play with first.

Just for example, I get .3MOA (on a good day) with 32.5gr of 3031 and SRA 55gr SBT's and HPBT's (right around 3500fps with about 15ES the last time I checked), but that's my rifle and YMMV - every rifle is different. I have taken coyotes and smaller varmints with it at 400yds. I used to like to practice with tennis balls at 400yds off the bench. I look for the most accurate load possible, and I don't think much of the idea of trying to tailor your load to match your scope reticle - I think it will be a long and involved task to find a combination that yeilds its best accuracy at an arbitrary velocity figure like that. A good range finder and bullet drop table for the specific velocity of the most accurate load is the usual way to go about it. I'm not saying it can't be done, or that you can't do it, just that it may not be very easy.

Other powders you may want to try are IMR 4064 & 4895, Varget, RE 7 & 15, and AA2520.

Try neck sizing with Lee Collet Dies and a Factory Crimp. The combination has made a significant difference in the accuracy with every cartridge I have tried them with (15 so far), but most especially with the .22-250.

Make sure you are seating the bullets as close to the origin of the lands as possible. Not every rifle's magazine will allow them to feed at their max possible length, but you have a good chance with the .22-250 as the actions are usually of a size to accomodate the longer .308 family of cartridges.

3 shot groups are only good for checking out the zero of the scope. You only begin to learn about the load with 5 or better yet 10 shots at different ranges.

An Extreme Spread of 50fps is acceptable for a deer rifle within 200yds, but if you want to be shooting at 300 and beyond, that much variation will open the groups too much at long ranges. I would like to see it 20 or less over 10 shots, lower if possible. The lower the better.

For accurate 400+ yard shots on small varmints, at minimum you need a rifle capable of .5MOA or less, and not many are, even if the cartridge itself is as inherently accurate as the .22-250.

Shootnjaz,
Try using H-380 with 55 grn.nosler BT's out of 4 differant rifles i've loaded for would get 1/2 in. or better groups with average speeds of 3665 to 3680 with winchester brass and rem, 9 1/2 primers,I like the H-380 in 22-250 meters ex. with very good results shoot groundhogs out to 600 yards with ex results.

Thanks for the advice. I am definatly going to try all of those loads.
I always check for over pressure and didnt see anything, but I stiill took your advise and backed off my load by about .5 grains and closed my group up a little. I think your right about trying to fit my load and scope together. Im going to drop that idea and fit my load to my rifle. I also think the problem with my FPS chrony's is my equipment. The very cheep and extremly light tri-pod that I am using is moving and I think results for a inaccurate reading from my chrony. With a better tripod and some sand bags I hope to solve that problem.
Assuming that I know very little about reloading,(which is true) ive been shooting factory loads all my life and have had good success with deer,pig,coyote ecc.
Now that I am reloading (approx 2 years) I am addicted to this new found hoby and am still learning. With that in mind when you say .5 MOA,my thoughts are 1/2" clicks @ 100 yds. on a scope, but your refering too it as the rifles capabilities?
Im not sure if im understanding that clearly.
Well thanks again for the advise, and hope to be able to pick youre brain a little more in the future.

Yes, I meant the rifle's capability. 1 MOA is about 1" @ 100yds. If you're "putting them through the same hole", it sounds like you have a capable rifle.

When you are shooting groups with more shots, make sure you don't let your barrel get too hot, or that will open them up and give you confusing results. If you can't rest the palm of your hand comfortably over the chamber, let it sit a while until you can before continuing. This can be a long and drawn out process in hot weather. Heavier barrels and smaller calibers are easier in this regard.

One of those powders may give you an acceptable load at that velocity, you never know until you try. If you find one that does, consider it a gift from the loading gods.

As long as your fired brass isn't showing pressure signs, it's no problem, but that much 3031 will be overpressure in some other rifles (like mine:) ).

It's good that you have already learned not to put too much trust in the velocity numbers found in loading manuals - that's an important lesson some reloaders just can't get through their heads. That is what is meant when "fast" or "slow" barrels are mentioned. Even if your barrel is the same length as the one used for the test, there can be a variance of a couple hundred fps more or less. Often, even two identical rifles won't show the same velocities with identical loads. Some of it's art, some of it's science. No two women ever ...ah... perform the same either, but rifles are easier to live with and don't get jealous of each other.

If you do not have a reliable chronograph (when I started loading, they cost a month's pay) there is an adequate way to estimate your MV. Most bullet makers publish tables for each weight and style bullet telling you how much they will drop over distance with varying MV's and zero ranges. For instance for bullet "A", if you are zeroed for 100yds and you have a MV of "B"fps, at 200yds, it will drop 3", and at 300yds, it will drop 7", etc. Accurately measuring the actual drop in point of impact for constant point of aim at two or more distances and comparing the numbers to the table will let you to make a reliable estimate of your actual MV.

When I say, "in the same hole", I mean there all touching eachother by at least 1/2. And only on my best days.
I have to admit, that ive never been one to spend much on a scope in the past, but on this rifle for the first time I opened up my wallet and broke the bank. That was truly the best thing that I could have ever done to increase my capabilities.
Im not saying that I would put this scope on all of my rifles, but for what im trying to accomplish with this rifle, its very nice.
This week im going to be moving my targets out to 250 yds with the 3031 load and start working on some different loads.
Someone told me yesterday that hallow point bullets are more accurate than bollistic tips because off wind brake...Do you know if that is true or not?
Again thanks for the advise.

It often can be. In my .22-250, I don't notice any real (measurable) difference out to 400yds between Sierra 52gr HPBT MatchKing bullets and their 55gr SBT and HPBT GameKings, but in other rifles you can often see a big difference. (My .308, for instance, will shoot Sierra 150 & 165 SBT GameKings a little better than MOA, and 168gr HPBT MatchKing bullets at .5MOA, about a 3/8" difference in 10 shots at 100yds. Not that it makes much difference to me as it's a big game hunting rifle.) It might make a really big difference in your rifle. Try a few different brands as well as different styles. I have probably tried more than twenty different bullets over the years in my varmint rifle, and will generally try new ones when they come on the market - nothing comes close to Sierras, though, amusingly, the first ones I ever tried. My friend has a Ruger in .22-250 that loves Nosler BT's as much as my Remington likes the Sierras, you never know....

A decent scope really makes a big difference a longer distances. I am partial to Leupolds, when I can afford them (I have three now) but I have also had good luck with Tascos.

Thanks for the good advise and WISDOM. And I hope I can put it into use.
I have a Nevada trip coming up in a couple of weeks and I hear that the coyotes are thick, and I wont take a shot that I know I cant make, so ill be at the range hard and heavy for the next couple of weeks.



thanks again
Jas:)