Hey, I need some more Reloading Tips for the reloading tip section. Any tips you guys have just post them here and I will put them up! Thanks!
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Hey, I need some more Reloading Tips for the reloading tip section. Any tips you guys have just post them here and I will put them up! Thanks!
After reloading a while, it might seem like second nature, but for those starting out-- Don't overlook that manufacturers may package bullets that don't weigh what they should. Be on the alert for the possibility of having bullets, lighter or heavier, than what the box states. It doesn't happen often, but does happen.
I always tumble my cases before doing anything else. But the neck area seems to demand the most attention. I use 4/0 steel wool to clean this area before tumbling. Powder residue seems to be real stubborn. And use a bore brush of the proper size to get that powder residue out of the neck.
Always tumble fired straight wall pistol cases. Especially when using carbide sizer dies. Just a bit of powder residue or dirt on the outside of cases, will soon make permanent scratches on the inside of that expensive die.
I never realized how 'crooked' my ammo was, until I got a gauge to check both the case neck run-out and the loaded round bullet run-out. It is also useful for correcting the die set-up for the press, if sizer is making case necks crooked too, or seater die is putting bullets in cases crooked. This is more useful for bottleneck cases than straight-walled ones.
Splendid! The've been added, keep em coming!
I've heard of and seen some guys put their reloaded rounds in a baggie! Now I realize it cost a bit more for ammo boxes, but come on here...you went to all the trouble to make good ammo.....put that ammo in a plastic ammo box ....where it will be safe from being knocked around and handier at the range.
Powder and primers, when stored properly, will remain quite useful for a very long time. But in order to rotate your stock, mark it with the month and year of purchase. This will at least let you know the age of your 2 primary components.
As you prep new brass, check inside of each case to insure there is no foreign residue or brass shavings. Factories do a marvelous job of making brass, but oversight still exists.
Got them up! Keep em coming!
I wish I had a run-out guage. Never seem to have enough "toy money" left over to buy one.
What I do do to minimize run-out, is use a partial stroke during seating.
Starting the bullet with a "short" stroke, rotate the case in the shell holder180^ +or- and finsh the seating with a full stroke.
If your initial start is slightly crooked, this rotating will straighten it.
If your seater plug isn't a 100% true, rotating will mininmize the "off-center" torque to some degree. But VH is right, the run-out guage is the only way to really know how straight they are.
Dave
those using progessive presses like the dillon should not leave any cases "midway" through the reloading cycle. I always run the shellplate "dry" before leaving the room,never know how long you will be away and one false step.....
Howdy. When choosing a new powder i always look for the best velocity and one that fills the case the most. Most often a compressed load or near compressed load will give the best accuracy.
Always have one specific powder on your reloading bench at a time, when done, even if you are only loading a couple rounds per powder, take it off your bench, put it away, then get the next powder you want to use.
Dave T
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