favorite 30-06 hunting loads

I'm thinking about loading some rounds for me and a friend for our 30-06; we both have Rem. 742 semi-auto. In the past I've heard that you do not shoot lead bullets in semi-autos because that could plug the gas port. I've recently read an article where lead bullets were used in a Garand with no problems. Can I load and shoot cast bullets within my semi-auto with no problems? My gun was built around 1976 with a golden spread eagle (painted) on the side. I absolutely love this gun but am afraid to shoot lead bullets in it or any other semi-auto, including my Desert Eagle 44 Mag.

Definitely don't shoot them in your Desert Eagle. I have read that they are three different kinds of hell to take the gas system apart and clean.

As to the Remington, I have not tried to clean one, but as long as you can get a pipe cleaner, etc into it, I don't think it would be a problem. I know one person locally who does it. The biggest issue is finding a load with enough vel/pressure to properly cycle the action without lead fouling the barrel. It is not an insurmountable problem, and you don't have to worry about damaging the guide rod like in a Garand/M1A. The two most important things to pay attention to are to have the bullet with GC sized no smaller than .002" above groove diameter and to use a fairly hard alloy like linotype for the bullets, at least for the initial experiments. You really have to slug the barrels of both rifles to be sure of the sizes and measure the slugs with a mic, not a caliper. Lyman 311291 is a great target bullet. Lino is not for hunting bullets, it shatters when it hits something solid like bone. If you can get a load that will let you shoot a softer alloy, then you can use it for hunting with a good flat nosed bullet liks a 31141. I would be looking at the three standard IMR powders 3031, 4064, and 4895 and figure the cast starting load with this formula:
Jacketed MAX Load - Jacketed Starting Load = Difference
Jacketed Starting Load - Difference = Cast Starting Load
If the CSL cycles the action, just go up in 1gr increments until you get a decent group. If it won't, work up until it does, being very careful not to squib a bullet in the barrel. IMR powders don't pressure spike at reduced loads like Win and other spherical powders do. If you get to the JSL and aren't grouping, switch powders. Some rifles are very particular about which bullets they like, so be prepared to go through a dozen or so between 150-190gr. Make sure every trace of copper fouling is cleaned out of the barrel first (use Sweet's and NYLON - not bronze - brushes). Don't expect both rifles to like the same load - odds are they will each prefer a different powder and bullet, just like with jacketed loads, and don't be surprised if the bores mic out to different sizes too.

versifier

I just wanted to thank you for your thoughts concerning my use in the guns listed above. Sounds best to stay away from lead in the Desert Eagle, enough said. The comments about slugging the 30-06 barrel and all else sounds as good advise. I appreciate the listings of bullets to think of using during practice and hunting.

I recently read a message from another reloader who specified the overall cartridge size which he stated gave him 0.015" or something like that before contacting the rifling. I've been reloading for sometime but never gave that thought much attention; I guess it only makes since for a tighter launch of the bullet which would improve the accuracy. Would someone give me a step-by-step breakdown of what all is involved? I guess that you load a uncharged/unprimed case with an appropriate bullet, bringing the bullet out until it gets scratched by the rifling. Then set the bullet a certain distance deeper to develop a safe accurate load. How much deeper 0.015" or so? Any help would be greatly appreciated; I've never worried about the gap between the bullet and the rifling before but since I've thought about it -- it makes all the since in the world.