Remember this early Proximity setup? Much better now......but look at the green stuff in AmmoMike's little tub that I used successfully for .45 boollit point down....without a ramp?
If I'd have made the tub green too, it'd light up the room ..... in an obnoxious way IMO.Too much is too much.....even RCBS green!
I've got my finish carpentry done, the carpets being layed at my job, so finally I may just get my case feeder finished this week....hope so.
Last edited by GWS; 12-15-2020 at 12:55 AM.
Love the old video. Isn't it cool when you have documentation of how the project progressed?Originally Posted by GWS
Remember this early Proximity setup? Much better now......but look at the green stuff in AmmoMike's little tub that I used successfully for .45 boollit point down....without a ramp?
If I'd have made the tub green too, it'd light up the room ..... in an obnoxious way IMO.
I've got my finish carpentry done, the carpets being layed at my job, so finally I may just get my case feeder finished this week....hope so.
Sounds dumb but there were so many things I learned on how to design my proximity sensor, just from your trial and error.
Progress.....
That's what makes this thread so good......same to say about your experience and others too. I'd have never progressed as fast without you....but I'm still a beginner printer.....and we all have input that's worthwhile that makes us all better.
Progress.... I notice one hole for the ramp.....I knew you discovered two weren't necessary or wanted. But the outlet hole looks the same....not ready for that change? or maybe it's going to be shallower than I did it. Should be an interesting education.
Oh! I thought when you said you were printing another main body it was because you made changes
Nope. I did a lot of 3d cad design and a lot of testing, and I am not convinced adding complexity to the drop hole on the main body is worth it. I feel like with the correct settings the drop hole works fine exactly as designed.Oh! I thought when you said you were printing another main body it was because you made changes
I am printing another body so I can use the new proximity sensor I should be getting in the next week.
Not exactly sure what you mean, but I determined one hole was simpler once the ramp was put in a track. Which was necessary to avoid the big lip on the slide plate to collator transition.
No, I don't mean the single hole....I knew why you did that....that's just the first upgraded plate I've seen with one hole.
That's what I mean. You're not convinced.
Actually, the reason I started playing with the outlet holes had more to do with the collator.....(the pre 3d print Hornady) which had an AC motor that ran one speed.....fast. In order to keep it from breaking gears under the plate (I did that when I converted it to flip bullets), I had to figure out a way to dump the bullets faster or they caught on the way down and broke things. So I was used to fast. My AmmoMike bucket needed something similar or slow it waaay down. I admit slowing it way down works and is still probably fast enough to keep up with my press handle workout....but faster is sorta me. I like fast cars best too.
All that said, what I really hate is the complexity (you mentioned complexity) of adjusting each application for just the right angle and just the right speed to work every time. You see, at my age, it's a memory thing.
Last edited by GWS; 12-15-2020 at 10:20 AM.
I still may revisit it. The idea of having an interchangeable part that leads up to the hole is basically what it would be. If in place it acts like it does now. If removed completely bullets would pre-drop. Or there could also be one that acts as a ramp to slowly lead down to the drop hole.No, I don't mean the single hole....I knew why you did that....that's just the first upgraded plate I've seen with one hole.
That's what I mean. You're not convinced.
Actually, the reason I started playing with the outlet holes had more to do with the collator.....(the pre 3d print Hornady) which had an AC motor that ran one speed.....fast. In order to keep it from breaking gears under the plate (I did that when I converted it to flip bullets), I had to figure out a way to dump the bullets faster or they caught on the way down and broke things. So I was used to fast. My AmmoMike bucket needed something similar or slow it waaay down. I admit slowing it way down works and is still probably fast enough to keep up with my press handle workout....but faster is sorta me. I like fast cars best too.
All that said, what I really hate is the complexity (you mentioned complexity) of adjusting each application for just the right angle and just the right speed to work every time. You see, at my age, it's a memory thing.
OK, who stole the Manual?
I'm a Boner! Found it
I took it out of the main folder, but it is in the download. As soon as I get v1.2 from o416 I will add it back in.
Need to brush up on my bullet nose down action! Never used the APP to size bullets yet. Not even sure what plate to start with for the .32 nose down. I use the 3 for nose up so I will start there. These are gonna be tough little buggers. 32 app SWC. so so small
You may need to use the same offset adapter I designed. As it is today, it is going to sit about 2mm above the slide plate. I just uploaded a newer version of that adapter 2mm shorter. Give it a shot.
Learn something new every day. Thanks a ton
I posted this before, but this shows the base concept. Swapable parts that can be designed to satisfy whatever solution is needed.
You are also going to have to manually position the offset so it lines up in the correct orientation. Best way to do that is insert it in the drop hole adapter, insert it in to the slide plate, line it up, and then screw the adapter down.
Are you doing to make a primer plate for it?
I'm sorry but not exactly sure what you are looking for.
Thank you sir!
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