44 Mag
They are tight for a reason.....I hate slop. At least on my printer they go in and turn.....then they get looser with use. Better than getting sloppy with use. Of course printers are different too. Never tried the heat idea.....how hot do you heat?
My first ones made for Mikes's pieces were sloppy, so I tightened them up a little.
I'm printing a honey do today: a shelf for the shampoo/conditioner rack in the shower.....wife doesn't like the wire frame shelf she bought so wondered if I could print a cover.....and keep the invert the near empty bottle holes.
Only reason I'm posting a picture of this is to show a new PLA choice I bought from Zyltec.....ran out of white. It's called "Uncle Jessy Gunmetal." (Redleg Ed sent me a sample of it and I liked what I saw) The wavy fill doesn't show it yet but it's pretty shiny......I'm thinking I will print some reloading things this color too....kinda like it. I think it's going to look great with the green stuff!
Last edited by GWS; 01-01-2021 at 07:41 PM.
Does anyone have a winning configuration for 40sw brass mouth down for bulge busting? I'm getting roughly 5% feeding base down and an occasional case going sideways in the adapter/funnel creating an obstruction.
large pistol base up collator
large base up slide plate
short sweeper
base up ramp
40 degrees tilt.
Any suggestions?
Thank you.
Have a xl750 coming in, I use the post mount for my AP currently. Can the post mount fit on Dillon's case mount tube? Switching over to case feeding for now, Should I buy a set of case tubes incase I need to cut for size?
You need more angle on the feeder. We recommend 45 degrees for everything except base up case feeding. For base up go to 55-60% tilt. This is required to get the rocking motion on the pivot
Point. If you do a search on my original post describing how it works it may help. If it’s not currently in the manual we can look to add it.
Just wanted to add the base up case feeding took me 6 weeks to work out. It’s a very finicky beast. Do a lot of experimenting with motor speed and angle and you should be able to get it more reliable then what you have now.
One more thing. I created the wall extender specifically for the base up feeding. Once you put so much tilt on the feeder it helps keep the brass in the feeder.
Last edited by TylerR; 01-02-2021 at 03:16 PM.
The gun metal silver isn't quite as shiny as I thought it was going to be, but I still like it. I printed an idea I had to light up a Pro Chucker 7 with Leds today. Wired it up, thought I'd share it. Redleg Ed has a new one, so this is my contribution.....not quite perfected, as in the top anchors are smaller than I thought they were going to be....that's what you get for designing in inches and converting to mm to print.....still learning..... I'll fix that and reprint tomorrow.....still works fine, just the principle.
Anyway below is the piece I just printed in Zyltec Gunmetal Silver:
Below: I recessed a spot for the LED to sit in, angled the ends so they can't fall out, and printed holes for the wires....
Below: Sure it works! You could mirror the print and hang one on the other side if you really want light.
One thing I really like is the ability to just lift to remove them if you want to put the press away, or take it to the range bolted to your tailgate?
I'll bet you guys can can figure out how to to come up with something that works similar for your press.....when your bullet feeders are done.
Hi GWS,
Very cool! Thanks!
Ed
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is totally optional!
I found the original post.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post4917179
o416 maybe we can add something to the manual that makes it clear more tilt is needed with base up case feeding.
That's the great pivot page! When big collators began too wasn't it? You sure made a stir with that...no doubt about it.
See, I didn't even realize there was a non -angled one......glad really, because I would've printed it and not realized I could fit the angled one so perfect for a very Dillon-like case dropper. Interesting how things turn out. I'm having to much dang fun! Helps when dealing with.......old.
And I can see me wanting to drop cases upside down to the APP.....jus don't have time right now, and all my .40's are fixed at the moment. The local police dept. used to use .40S&W and Glocks.....yeah.....Glocked brass was everywhere on the range and the police shoots expected US to clean up after them......oh what drudgery! So I had a lot I fixed the slow way.....then.... Glock fixed their "perfect pistol"......and the local police went back to, ugh, 9mm!
Last edited by GWS; 01-03-2021 at 02:15 PM.
I thought I read a while back you made a base for this Gearstisan Motor....... Actually I thought it was the The same footprint as the JGY370.... But alas, I just came home to the motor being here, and nothing lines up...
Did you create one? Can you? Do you need some measurements?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah huge size difference between those two motors. Honestly I think that 634JS motor might be the best one after the McMcaster motor. I saw your pics and it seems to work out nicely.
As a side note, I modified all the bodies to accept the electronics box on either the right or left hand side.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |