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  1. #1
    Beginner Reloader
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    Default to crimp or not to crimp

    I bought a Tikka T3 270mm WSM a week ago. I am now working up a load to try in it. I am going to use Hornady 130 grain SST's in it. I am trying to decide if I should seat the bullets long and not crimp them or use the cannelure and crimp them in. Do you guys have any opinions on this and will crimping them or not crimping them have any effects on how they shoot? Any info appreciated.

  2. #2
    Reloading King kodiak1's Avatar
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    Lightbulb crimping

    Ableshooter if the over all is close when seated at the crimp I like to crimp I don't know why but I guess it's there so I use it if I have to seat deeper or longer say 1/8" either way is usually my deciding point more than that I just seat the bullet and leave it if neck tension is good.
    Ken.
    Ken.

    Love to Live, Live to Shoot.

  3. #3
    Reloading King Oldbushman's Avatar
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    Default

    I have a likeing for tapper crimps myself just to hold the bullet in place under recoil ! Too heavier crimp can lead to higher pressures just firm seems to be the way to go

    Dave

  4. #4
    Super Moderator versifier's Avatar
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    Default

    I'm not sure if this two cents is worth two cents as I don't shoot the caliber, but these are my thoughts on crimping....
    Is the recoil enough to make the uncrimped bullet move in the case neck?
    Is in going through a revolver, lever, pump, or semi-auto action?
    If any of the above answers is yes, then you need to crimp.
    Some cases (notably the .30-30) benefit greatly from a crimp in most (but not all ) actions I have tried them in.
    For bolt actions, it depends upon the rifle - two examples: my .308 needs it because the recoil moves the bullets out causing feeding problems, my .22-250 doesn't and it has a negative effect on group size when applied. I would imagine that your .270WSM generates enough recoil to make crimping necessary - I crimp regular .270's for the Ruger 77 I load them for.
    I roll crimp only but all revolver cases. I taper crimp all semi-auto pistol cases and some bottleneck rifle cases when I load cast in them - they work great and have been my favorites for many years. BUT, I am now switching to Lee Factory Crimpers for all my bottleneck rifle cases as I need or can afford them - I think they are more easily adjustable, give more leeway with regards to case length, and they let me see what is happening (the bullet/boolit sticks out of the top of the die and I can watch and monitor how little or how much the collet closes on it).
    The more I use Lee products, the more I love their dies and hate their boolit moulds. There's no such thing as something for nothing anymore.....
    If I can see it, I can hit it. Now, where did I put my glasses?

  5. #5
    Beginner Reloader
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    Default

    A freind of mine shoots a 300. wsm and tried it both ways,but found it shoots best w/o a crimp. He loads to some 3150 fps ,180 gr. bullet Barnes xxx,winchester 760 powder,23"bbl, 1" at 200 yds, chronographed. I shoot a 8mm mauser pre war comm action 24"bbl,h-414 powder,220 hornady spire point,2522fps,no crimp,no sign of pressure,1"@50 yds,open sights. I guess every gun is it's own self.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check        

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