have 62cal smoothbore looking for loads for duck hunting and geese shooting a fusil 42" barrel also using cups for steel shot
have 62cal smoothbore looking for loads for duck hunting and geese shooting a fusil 42" barrel also using cups for steel shot
Welcome to the forum yelofoot.
Hmmm. That's a really good question. I don't know anyone who hunts waterfowl with caplock or flintlock, though I do know several that will occasionally hunt upland birds. A plastic 20GA cup wad measures .610". That might do the trick, at least as far as protecting the bore from the steel shot. It might horrify the purists, like shooting plastic sabots out of flintlock rifles, but that's their problem. It sure would keep the game wardens happy, though. Otherwise you might not be able to hunt waterfowl with it at all. I think the shot cup to protect the bore is a really good idea - I would assume that builders of such rifles would envision exhibition, target, or upland shooting and think lead shot, but my knowledge of the steels used in shotgun barrels is sadly lacking. As far as loads to use, I think the pattern board could tell you more than anyone might by speculating.
Anyone with any experience up this alley, do chime in.
The "campfire" forum at http://muzzleloadermag.infopop.cc/eve may have more who would be likely to know or to steer you in the right direction. Mike Nesbitt posts on there a lot, and if he doesn't know, he will know who does and let you know. There are many there who build custom reproductions of just about anything as hobbies and professionally. I think it would make a good thread there - modernists vs. traditionalists ought to stir up a lively debate.
If I can see it, I can hit it. Now, where did I put my glasses?
thanks for the reply. was looking for powder charges on a 20 ga for steel shot. i'v been hunting for some time with black powder but iv not hunted ducks though. hoping to change that. we as hunters and sportsman should look for new ways to enjoy our sport and others too. this keeps our sport alive & well
Well, I do, as I'm sure you do also, know how to work up m/l or regular shotgun loads the old fashioned way with patterning boards. I see no reason why it wouldn't work with steel shot in a cup, too. Like with a hunting rifle, the more velocity you can achieve while the group size is still acceptable, the better. I'd up the charge until the pattern density begins to suffer too much. Lyman's Blackpowder Handbook has starting loads for 20GA with lead shot, that's a good place to begin. Find out what weight of steel pellets fills the shot cup you decide on and go from there. Although most waterfowlers consider the 20GA marginal for waterfowling, I know several who prefer it for its light weight and quick pointability and do quite well with it.
If I can see it, I can hit it. Now, where did I put my glasses?
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |