Anybody else shooting Savage?
I've really gotton hooked on their accuracy. Straight out of the box, dollar for dollar, it has to be one of the best out there!?!
Anybody else shooting Savage?
I've really gotton hooked on their accuracy. Straight out of the box, dollar for dollar, it has to be one of the best out there!?!
It's better to hunt than to be hunted!
I think so, and the guys at GunTests certainly agree with you, too. My old 24V .30-30/20g that my brother talked me out of last year was/is one of the most accurate .30 cal barrels I have ever owned, and that includes several match rifles. I've loaded for many 110's over the years and been impressed more often than not, though I'm also very partial to older Remingtons. I think the mod 99 is about the best lever for woods hunting and pleasure shooting ever made, and though I like the lines of the Win94, they're too abusive to shoot with hunting loads. Savage has always kept a finger on the pulse of hunters and shooters and will have a loyal following for at least another century and beyond.
If I can see it, I can hit it. Now, where did I put my glasses?
Howdy I agree, Savage is a very accurate rifle. I have a 12fv in 223 with a 6.5-20 mildot and with Benchmark powder pushing a 50gr nosler Balistic Tip it shoots in the .4s ( when i do my part) straight out of the box.Very nice rifle.
Moderator at HuntingNut.com
I have just bought a PD gun, a Savage 12VFSS in 223. My first shots with Wolf ammo were disappointing. Winchester white box showed me a 3/4" 5 shot group. Off to the bench!
I ordered a bunch of bullets from Midway, bought a bunch of different powders and primers and started. My last load was straight from the WW free Load Manual with 748 and a 50 gr Dogtown bullet. I happened to fier that load first. It shoots 3/8" 5 round groups. Several others are good, but why bother? I just shot the rest up in my AR.
I also just got rid of a Savage 10 in 243. It didn't have the accutrigger, but it shot sub MOA groups with 3 different factory loads, and all three groups were only 1 1/2" across. I sold it Sunday at the Gun Show.
I bought a Savage 23C in 32-20 20 years ago, and it is a tack driver. My brother's 340 is a sub MOA gun with factory ammo.
Thay make a great, under rated product.
Mickey Rat
NRA Life Member
Citizen of Alabama
I have a model 16 in 300 wsm. I handloaded 180 grain swift a-frames with 69 grains of REL22 and it shot .6 3 shot group at 100 yrds. the accubonds and grand slams did the same. I also have a stevens in 25-06 and it shoots .5 hand loads. I'll buy another,got me hooked.
hey guys, I hate to be a downer but I've yet to see a good shooting savage. Granted I havn't seen many but I've yet to see one shoot a good 1" group. Rems are easier to tinker and i took my new XR-100 out today and the first group I have ever shot with it was .22". Maybe the Savages I saw were too cheap?
Damned fine group with your Remington, you have found a treasure. But, I think you have not yet met and shot enough Savages. Most will shoot MOA with factory ammo, though you may have to try a few different kinds to see what it likes best. With proper handloads, the majority will approach 1/2 MOA. While bedding and floating will help things even more, generally they are unnecessary. With the older models, while they may not be up to the extreme accuracy standards which the modern set, They have always been as good or better than anything their competition has produced, and usually for a lower price. Esthetically, the 110 may not be the prettiest rifle around, but the groups that they can produce are enough for me to forgive that easily.
If I can see it, I can hit it. Now, where did I put my glasses?
Hi I bought my first Savage in 1970 when I returned home from Nam...it cost me $155 new ate herters and has the clip...actually the wife bought it to get me out of the house...hahahaha...since then I have bought 4 of them, and love them all...have Ruger #1's which I love also but the Savages have shot better out of box than any rifle i have shot...have put custom stocks on 2 but only because i love pretty wood...my last 2 are the ugly bluck and silve metal...YUK!...but both shoot well...the model 12 shot .25 out of the box with black hills ammo...I guess when I found Savage it was when a LEFTY had to have a custom gun made to get the bolt on the correct side...not sure why the comment was made the Rem was easier to tinker with, as it seems to me the Savage has that niche...as far as some say it is an ugly gun, I hope they dont change it as I can rebarrel mine in under an hour...sooooo I just hope it is a secret that is kept so I dont have to pay as much as the other guys when I want a new one..hahaha...just my thoughts..
WW1
You know the first rifle I bought was a savage model 11 in 243. It has since been shuffled back in my rotation of rifles that I shoot, but right out of the box it was a dependable straight shooting rifle. I have thrown money all over the place chasing the most accurate rifle, well that is not totally true, I just love getting a new rifle and putting the time in to work up a new load for it. I have a Cooper model 21 in 223 WSSM, Weatherby vanguard in 22-250, browning varment staulker in 204, bushmaster ar15 in 223, Tikka in 270 WSM, Browning BAR in 7mm rem mag, etc. All of them are fine shooting rifles and since I have put the time in all of them will shoot sub MOA with the hand loads I have worked up for them. I am a big fan of Tikka rifles along with Brownings. But when all is said and done my savage if you compare dollars spent to accuracy is probably the best value of all that I own.
Having said that, my savage has an accutrigger, and I am not a big fan of it. It serves its purpose but I would much rather have a regular trigger that is set for the right pull weight than the retracting accutrigger.
You guys have any opinion on the savage accutrigger?
I had an old 340 years ago and it drove me nuts. I would get it to shooting like a real tack driver for a while then it would shoot like a shotgun. I would work on it till I was about crazy and give up. 6 or 8 month later I`d get it out and it would drivee tacks again. I lost it in a fire and really wasn`t sorry to se it go. I just pick-up my second Savage acouple month back. It was a .30-06 but it`s being rebarreled to a .22-6mm. Barrel , new trigger, action trued, different stock and dies for alittle over $500, you can`t get a complet custom rifle built on anyother action for that, especially if you want to turn it into a swich barrel.
My Savage 110 in 243 was $316 with a Bushnell 3X 9 scope on it ten years ago. It shot sub minute right out of the box with Remington ammo and will do .600 with my handloads. The only changes have been a better scope, the original went in the tank a few weeks after I bought it and Wal-Mart gave me a much higher grade scope in it's place, and I worked over the trigger to lighten the pull to 2 1/2 #. A few weeks ago it took out 11 prarie dogs straight at 200 to 440 yds. My longest shot deer was 460 yds. with this gun. My Savage Stryker shot sub minute out of the box with an 8 X Burris pistol scope, it's a 22-250. I am not as fond of it as I thought I would be, because it is too big to be a pistol, and too short for a rifle. I cannot fault it for quality, though. It's a handy length for a truck gun ( legal to shoot from a vehicle in Texas, not from road of course) and has accounted for a number of varmits that way. My Rem. 700, 721 never shot so well without a lot of work. I spent a couple thousand once to have a custom rifle built on a Sako action that didn't do any better than my Savages. My daughter-in-laws Tikka in 243 will not do near as well and the bolt travel is rough as sandpaper. A Ruger 77 in 243 was so terrible, trigger and accuracy, I didn't even attempt to improve it, just moved it on. Pretty is as pretty does expresses my sentiments. Dale
I reckon the biggest mistake of my life was to part with a '99' I had in 300 savage some years ago ! The chap I sold it to,still chants it at me every chance he gets!
Dave
EXPERIANCE ........Is something you gt 5mins after you needed it
I am down to a 340 in 30wcf and a 24 22 over 20 gauge. I gave my 110 in 30-06 to my son a few years ago and they are all shooters. Gianni.
Front sight and squeeze
My fovorite thing about the Savages is the way they mount their barrels. All you have to do is loosen the barrel nut, unscrew the barrel and screw in another and tighten the nut. The easiest switch barrel gun on the market. That makes it real handy for guys like me that like to play with Wildcat.
I have a savage 12vss in .22-250 with a 6x18 scope, I love this gun with the exception of a little bolt stickieness, Ive put about 300 round through it ( reloaded, and factory ammo) and I still get a stuck bolt every once in a while. Any ideas???
One of these days I got to pick up a Savage in 30-30. Love that little round and I think in a bolt a guy could have a field day playing with loads.
Take Care
Bob
It's either a problem with the ammo or a problem with the rifle. An ammo problem we can figure out with some careful measuring. If it happens with all different ammo, then it is not an ammo problem, but rather something mechanical. That's an issue to take up with Savage. But if it only happens with certain ammo, and not with others, then an ammo problem is indicated, so we can focus our attention on measuring the dimensional differences between the stuff that works fine and the stuff that causes problems.
Difficulty lifting the bolt can be one of the indications of dangerously high chamber pressure, but it is not the only thing that could cause the problem and if it were the cause there would be other indicators, especially the primers, that would also show telltale signs. If the primers do not show any danger signs, (flattening, cratering, setback) and it happens with both handloads and factory ammo, then it is not a pressure issue but rather something mechanical that they may be able to diagnose for you. (It could be as simple as a fitting/finishing/polishing issue that could be cured in a few minutes with a Dremel tool, but exactly where and why the binding is occuring is hard to figure out without being able to examine it firsthand.) If fired factory cases are displaying pressure signs, then the rifle needs a trip back to the factory, no question.
Perhaps with a little more information from you it will become clearer, though. Can you describe exactly what happens and when? How often? What do you have to do to get it open when it sticks?
I do not work on Savage bolt actions, so I am not very familiar with all their potential problem areas, (hence my advice to contact the factory), but if it is an ammo issue, a few careful measurements of your cases before and after firing will likely pinpoint what's happening and why.
If I can see it, I can hit it. Now, where did I put my glasses?
The one thing I failed to mention in my origional post was it seems to do it after the gun heats up a little bit, could heat be the problem?
That's quite possible, and if so, that is a problem you should contact Savage about. Something's too big if a little heat causes enough expansion to bind things up. It's certainly not normal. Do the primers on the fired brass look OK?
If I can see it, I can hit it. Now, where did I put my glasses?
yes, everything looks fine, case primers, ect. I'll call savage and see what they say.
BJ
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |